Show: Rockton, Ontario, Canada
Date : June 24th
Judge : Virginia Lyne
U-Ch Belglen Roskva CGN TT took Best of Breed in the Icelandic Sheepdog Class.
Mrs. Lyne remembered Roskva from the Purina Dog Show, in March..
As always lots of folks came up to meet a Icelandic Sheepdog in person.
Monday, June 25, 2007
Thursday, June 21, 2007
Training your Dog- Sue Ailsby Clicker Training Seminar
TRAIN YOUR DOG: Sue Ailsby Clicker Training Seminar - Part 2
By Sharon Schaefer
In Part One I covered the mechanical skills of clicker and treat delivery; dogs targeting fingers or pens; and starting hand or counter zen (respecting food not belonging to them). Sue no longer "charges the clicker" because she wants the dog’s first learning to be that they control the click which equals the treat. The click is never independent of the dog’s prior behaviour. Good trainers give information to the dog five times faster than poor ones so practise the skills, become faster, and never start until your treat is ready to deliver.
The click is also NEVER given without the treat. If you click accidentally still give them a treat, no matter what their actual behaviour might have been. They need to know in the core of their being that click IS treat (c/t). You can treat without clicking whether deliberately (eg. a dog who needs some calming) or accidentally (food which falls before they’re reliably progressed on ‘zen’). Don’t panic – cover it with your foot if you can or just let them eat it unless it’s your Sunday roast and you need to rescue it!
Sue starts with target because it gives immediate, frequent, positive feedback to the dog and most traditionally trained dogs and people can still engage with these requests. The dog targets my fingers or my pen and gets a click/treat – if they want another treat most dogs within three attempts will have learned how to control my behaviour so that I will deliver the treat. Hand zen and counter zen are introduced early because this lifeskill is very important to most people living successfully with a dog.
Training is all accomplished by shaping, capturing, or luring and most training is a combination of all three. Like us dogs also process experiences while they sleep and so apparent lack of progress one day or several can be followed by leaps in understanding both for the dog and for the owner!
Luring is the quickest means to an end behaviour in many cases (eg. luring a sit is quicker to the second sit than either shaping or capturing but after a few lured sits let the dog offer them without the lure – capturing the behaviour instead strengthens the learning). The lure needs to be faded quickly so the dog does not rely on it unless the lure mimics a cue/hand signal in which case that cue can continue sometimes (if you always use it the dog will not offer the behaviour unless lured) as training progresses. When you reach the stage of wanting a stand, a nice one can be lured by planning to have the dog back into it – lure from end if nose along mid-jawline below to throat so they are tucking head and backing up.
Shaping a dog to a particular behaviour means c/ting closer and closer approximations in the dog’s behaviour. Begin with baby steps so you both can succeed. If you want the dog to go around a post (or stool or wastebasket or whatever is handy) sit yourself down, toss a treat towards the pole from a foot or so away (a bit of a lure) then c/t while they are moving in that direction, and toss another treat towards or in front of them; c/t several times while they are in area of pole and in motion; then let them come back to you or wherever (no reward) but keep c/ting every time they take any step towards the pole – the direction (clockwise/counterclockwise) doesn’t matter. A 10-20 second session (8-16 kibbles) to begin is best to be really effective. Keeping sessions short will prevent you becoming frustrated! For most dogs who have never been rewarded for taking initiative, shaping requires a constant stream of reinforcement. However, 2-10 minutes after your 10-20 second training session you can do it again; and again; and again. When the dog is offering to go around the pole, click three quarters of the way around and drop the treat at your feet. Let them do this a few times then move your chair back a couple of feet and see if they will still offer the behaviour. After they’ve offered it 100 times you’re ready to add the cue word immediately after the click (if you will be doing herding the cue will probably be different than if you’re into agility). Read Sue’s Levels Training for the means of progressing with distance, direction, and additional posts.
Anything which the dog frequently does in daily life, such as sit and lie down, are easiest (not fastest necessarily) to train by capturing it. You are ready with clicker while you watch TV and the dog happens to lie down so you c/t immediately by tossing the treat so the dog will get up. Then they need to think about what they did that made you c/t; stay still and keep your arms crossed so they can’t target. Be very patient – whether they repeat the down quickly or not they are thinking. Eventually they will get tired and lie down again – immediate c/t. This is one case where you are not rewarding frequently until they start offering the behaviour so don’t do this before a mealtime.
Formal training times should be brief – 2 seconds to 10 minutes is sufficient! It will take you longer to set up the room until you get comfortable with the process. Early on you could have stashes of kibble and cheese around the house and on your body so you can always deliver a treat when needed. The dog will tell you if a reward is good – the behaviour will increase. If a desired behaviour decreases then that is not a reward to this dog at this time or the reward is not frequent enough (about 8 treats in 10 seconds for beginning a new behaviour) or there is something in the environment which is punishing the desired behaviour. Perhaps the dog is not hungry or is too distracted in which case you need to change times or locations. The half hour before the dog’s mealtime is precious training time (treat with their meal kibble) and you can use the bathroom as the first training centre.
The focus is to catch them doing it right – over and over and over again. Food is always the primary motivator/reward because in a training session, if you are going to use a toy as a reward, then the dog needs to be given a minute to actually play. As your partnership progresses, learn what else is rewarding for your particular dog in different circumstances so you can vary the rewards and opportunities to interact. Teach your dog to play with a wide variety of toys both independently and with you. Some dogs might love to tug with you but only in private. Some dogs will retrieve a certain size or feel of ball better than other types. Some dogs will kill every squeaky toy and others will carefully save them to cuddle. Destroying a certain type of toy is a reward to some dogs so plan to give them the chance sometimes!
Lifestyle rewards: going out into the backyard is a reward – ask (by luring) them to target a pen or to sit (not sit/stay yet just one thing at a time) before you open the door. Anything that the dog wants to do can be a training opportunity: jumping up on the couch or going for a walk or getting breakfast are all chances to catch them doing something right then REWARD by allowing the behaviour.
Sue’s oldest dog spends time each evening playing a completely new shaping game as she solves problems for other service dog owners/trainers, her younger dog plays sometimes. These behaviours are never named; they are problem-solving exercises and practise thinking sessions for her and the dogs. When requested to demonstrate she shaped first 10 year old Scuba, then 1 year old Stitch to spin a wheel on a dolly which had been turned on its side and placed across the room – Scuba worked up to solidly spinning the wheel and repeated the behaviour several times in less than two minutes. Sue’s Levels are designed to develop you and your dog into a thinking team that can learn most new behaviours in three minutes. Putting it on cue takes longer.
If anyone wants to compete in any dog sport, including conformation, or simply to develop a better relationship with their partner-dog, I would strongly recommend attending any of Sue’s seminars.
Sue has authored a Training Levels book which is available in three different formats for free download at her website www.dragonflyllama.com.
By Sharon Schaefer
In Part One I covered the mechanical skills of clicker and treat delivery; dogs targeting fingers or pens; and starting hand or counter zen (respecting food not belonging to them). Sue no longer "charges the clicker" because she wants the dog’s first learning to be that they control the click which equals the treat. The click is never independent of the dog’s prior behaviour. Good trainers give information to the dog five times faster than poor ones so practise the skills, become faster, and never start until your treat is ready to deliver.
The click is also NEVER given without the treat. If you click accidentally still give them a treat, no matter what their actual behaviour might have been. They need to know in the core of their being that click IS treat (c/t). You can treat without clicking whether deliberately (eg. a dog who needs some calming) or accidentally (food which falls before they’re reliably progressed on ‘zen’). Don’t panic – cover it with your foot if you can or just let them eat it unless it’s your Sunday roast and you need to rescue it!
Sue starts with target because it gives immediate, frequent, positive feedback to the dog and most traditionally trained dogs and people can still engage with these requests. The dog targets my fingers or my pen and gets a click/treat – if they want another treat most dogs within three attempts will have learned how to control my behaviour so that I will deliver the treat. Hand zen and counter zen are introduced early because this lifeskill is very important to most people living successfully with a dog.
Training is all accomplished by shaping, capturing, or luring and most training is a combination of all three. Like us dogs also process experiences while they sleep and so apparent lack of progress one day or several can be followed by leaps in understanding both for the dog and for the owner!
Luring is the quickest means to an end behaviour in many cases (eg. luring a sit is quicker to the second sit than either shaping or capturing but after a few lured sits let the dog offer them without the lure – capturing the behaviour instead strengthens the learning). The lure needs to be faded quickly so the dog does not rely on it unless the lure mimics a cue/hand signal in which case that cue can continue sometimes (if you always use it the dog will not offer the behaviour unless lured) as training progresses. When you reach the stage of wanting a stand, a nice one can be lured by planning to have the dog back into it – lure from end if nose along mid-jawline below to throat so they are tucking head and backing up.
Shaping a dog to a particular behaviour means c/ting closer and closer approximations in the dog’s behaviour. Begin with baby steps so you both can succeed. If you want the dog to go around a post (or stool or wastebasket or whatever is handy) sit yourself down, toss a treat towards the pole from a foot or so away (a bit of a lure) then c/t while they are moving in that direction, and toss another treat towards or in front of them; c/t several times while they are in area of pole and in motion; then let them come back to you or wherever (no reward) but keep c/ting every time they take any step towards the pole – the direction (clockwise/counterclockwise) doesn’t matter. A 10-20 second session (8-16 kibbles) to begin is best to be really effective. Keeping sessions short will prevent you becoming frustrated! For most dogs who have never been rewarded for taking initiative, shaping requires a constant stream of reinforcement. However, 2-10 minutes after your 10-20 second training session you can do it again; and again; and again. When the dog is offering to go around the pole, click three quarters of the way around and drop the treat at your feet. Let them do this a few times then move your chair back a couple of feet and see if they will still offer the behaviour. After they’ve offered it 100 times you’re ready to add the cue word immediately after the click (if you will be doing herding the cue will probably be different than if you’re into agility). Read Sue’s Levels Training for the means of progressing with distance, direction, and additional posts.
Anything which the dog frequently does in daily life, such as sit and lie down, are easiest (not fastest necessarily) to train by capturing it. You are ready with clicker while you watch TV and the dog happens to lie down so you c/t immediately by tossing the treat so the dog will get up. Then they need to think about what they did that made you c/t; stay still and keep your arms crossed so they can’t target. Be very patient – whether they repeat the down quickly or not they are thinking. Eventually they will get tired and lie down again – immediate c/t. This is one case where you are not rewarding frequently until they start offering the behaviour so don’t do this before a mealtime.
Formal training times should be brief – 2 seconds to 10 minutes is sufficient! It will take you longer to set up the room until you get comfortable with the process. Early on you could have stashes of kibble and cheese around the house and on your body so you can always deliver a treat when needed. The dog will tell you if a reward is good – the behaviour will increase. If a desired behaviour decreases then that is not a reward to this dog at this time or the reward is not frequent enough (about 8 treats in 10 seconds for beginning a new behaviour) or there is something in the environment which is punishing the desired behaviour. Perhaps the dog is not hungry or is too distracted in which case you need to change times or locations. The half hour before the dog’s mealtime is precious training time (treat with their meal kibble) and you can use the bathroom as the first training centre.
The focus is to catch them doing it right – over and over and over again. Food is always the primary motivator/reward because in a training session, if you are going to use a toy as a reward, then the dog needs to be given a minute to actually play. As your partnership progresses, learn what else is rewarding for your particular dog in different circumstances so you can vary the rewards and opportunities to interact. Teach your dog to play with a wide variety of toys both independently and with you. Some dogs might love to tug with you but only in private. Some dogs will retrieve a certain size or feel of ball better than other types. Some dogs will kill every squeaky toy and others will carefully save them to cuddle. Destroying a certain type of toy is a reward to some dogs so plan to give them the chance sometimes!
Lifestyle rewards: going out into the backyard is a reward – ask (by luring) them to target a pen or to sit (not sit/stay yet just one thing at a time) before you open the door. Anything that the dog wants to do can be a training opportunity: jumping up on the couch or going for a walk or getting breakfast are all chances to catch them doing something right then REWARD by allowing the behaviour.
Sue’s oldest dog spends time each evening playing a completely new shaping game as she solves problems for other service dog owners/trainers, her younger dog plays sometimes. These behaviours are never named; they are problem-solving exercises and practise thinking sessions for her and the dogs. When requested to demonstrate she shaped first 10 year old Scuba, then 1 year old Stitch to spin a wheel on a dolly which had been turned on its side and placed across the room – Scuba worked up to solidly spinning the wheel and repeated the behaviour several times in less than two minutes. Sue’s Levels are designed to develop you and your dog into a thinking team that can learn most new behaviours in three minutes. Putting it on cue takes longer.
If anyone wants to compete in any dog sport, including conformation, or simply to develop a better relationship with their partner-dog, I would strongly recommend attending any of Sue’s seminars.
Sue has authored a Training Levels book which is available in three different formats for free download at her website www.dragonflyllama.com.
Cooking for Dogs Spring 2007 Newsletter Issue
WELCOME to COOKING FOR DOGS Spring 2007 Issue
By Valerie Sharp
Tiny Clicker Training Treats.
Well, I have been busy in the kitchen trying to make a treat that is for clicker training, now we all know that they sell little plastic tubs of single tiny bites for training at the different clubs and on-line, but its proven to be difficult for me to figure out how to get the same tiny treat, I tried putting the dough though a grinder, with the idea of cutting it off in tiny spots as it came out, and it didn't work, at least not for me. . .
So then, I tried making softer cookies, so that I could break off tiny pieces, not bad but still not the same . . . so tried cutting them in strips and then moving them over to the baking sheet, yikes what a load of work and still not really what I was after, I wanted even smaller pieces . . .
So this is what I have figured out, and here is my latest Doggy Treats.
4 hotdogs
1 or 2 med clove of Garlic (or half a teaspoon of dry Garlic powder)
1/4 cup cold pressed oil (if possable use a healthy oil, like sunflower etc.)
1/4 cup cold water
1/4 cup oatmeal (non-quick cook kind)
1 1/2 cups of whole wheat flour
up to 1/2 cup flour extra
So in a food processor, chop up your hotdog and garlic together, then slowly add oil till a beaten mush, then add water and oatmeal, chop again, then add one full cup of whole wheat flour, mix, add up to another half cup of whole wheat flour till it forms a soft ball.
Take out and knead like bread dough, keep adding a bit more flour till you have a soft dough but not sticky, then roll out very thin, 1/8th of inch is perfect, try to roll it out to be a sheet the same size as your cookie sheet. Then carefully fold it over and pick up and slide onto your cookie sheet, then carefully take your pizza cutting wheel, and start cutting lines, very narrow strips, once you are done one way, cut the other way, each of my cookie sheet made about 350-400 tiny bite size peices,
This recipe made enough for both large cookie sheets, I cooked both at the same time. Do not break apart, just cook the cut with lines in in a 350 oven for 15 min and then turn oven off and let sit for four hours or overnight to harden . . .
When done, take off cookie sheet and whack the pieces and they will come apart on the lines, and yahoo! about 600 to 800 tiny bite size pieces of very yummy training treats, I know that this recipe calls for more oil than I normally use, but I wanted them very crisp, but if you wanted to make the cookies with less calories, you could use apple sauce instead.
Well, everyone of my dogs loved them, so given them a try, and let me know if yours loved them to.. They should be kept in the fridge as all homemade cookies should be, but they will keep in a cool dry spot on the counter for at least a week, but as for longer, I don't know, I have never had any left :)
By Valerie Sharp
Tiny Clicker Training Treats.
Well, I have been busy in the kitchen trying to make a treat that is for clicker training, now we all know that they sell little plastic tubs of single tiny bites for training at the different clubs and on-line, but its proven to be difficult for me to figure out how to get the same tiny treat, I tried putting the dough though a grinder, with the idea of cutting it off in tiny spots as it came out, and it didn't work, at least not for me. . .
So then, I tried making softer cookies, so that I could break off tiny pieces, not bad but still not the same . . . so tried cutting them in strips and then moving them over to the baking sheet, yikes what a load of work and still not really what I was after, I wanted even smaller pieces . . .
So this is what I have figured out, and here is my latest Doggy Treats.
4 hotdogs
1 or 2 med clove of Garlic (or half a teaspoon of dry Garlic powder)
1/4 cup cold pressed oil (if possable use a healthy oil, like sunflower etc.)
1/4 cup cold water
1/4 cup oatmeal (non-quick cook kind)
1 1/2 cups of whole wheat flour
up to 1/2 cup flour extra
So in a food processor, chop up your hotdog and garlic together, then slowly add oil till a beaten mush, then add water and oatmeal, chop again, then add one full cup of whole wheat flour, mix, add up to another half cup of whole wheat flour till it forms a soft ball.
Take out and knead like bread dough, keep adding a bit more flour till you have a soft dough but not sticky, then roll out very thin, 1/8th of inch is perfect, try to roll it out to be a sheet the same size as your cookie sheet. Then carefully fold it over and pick up and slide onto your cookie sheet, then carefully take your pizza cutting wheel, and start cutting lines, very narrow strips, once you are done one way, cut the other way, each of my cookie sheet made about 350-400 tiny bite size peices,
This recipe made enough for both large cookie sheets, I cooked both at the same time. Do not break apart, just cook the cut with lines in in a 350 oven for 15 min and then turn oven off and let sit for four hours or overnight to harden . . .
When done, take off cookie sheet and whack the pieces and they will come apart on the lines, and yahoo! about 600 to 800 tiny bite size pieces of very yummy training treats, I know that this recipe calls for more oil than I normally use, but I wanted them very crisp, but if you wanted to make the cookies with less calories, you could use apple sauce instead.
Well, everyone of my dogs loved them, so given them a try, and let me know if yours loved them to.. They should be kept in the fridge as all homemade cookies should be, but they will keep in a cool dry spot on the counter for at least a week, but as for longer, I don't know, I have never had any left :)
Genetics Report -Dewclaws Information, Spring Issue 2007
Genetics Report: Breeding for Dewclaws (or how I lost an important breed characteristic in two easy steps)
Sharon K. Schaefer
In our breed dewclaws must be present on all four legs. When I purchased my first Icelandic I searched for a puppy with not just rear dewclaws but double rear dewclaws. When her six grand puppies were born here last year, two had no dewclaws at all on one hindleg. Two others had singles on both hindlegs, and on one of these they were quite weak. I didn’t truly understand what a good or poor double dewclaw looked like.
By failing to focus hard on the conformation of good dewclaws on every leg and individual differences between both legs and dogs I had lost a critical characteristic of the Icelandic Sheepdog.
Given the low numbers of Icelandics that most of us have met in real life and the small gene pool of our breed in Canada I hope that this article will prevent other breeders from unknowingly (note: I may still have chosen to do this mating) reproducing this event.
I would especially like to acknowledge the efforts and information shared by Monika Karlsdottir in the articles, drawings, and charts on her website - I had access to these before this mating but difficulty in downloading and my own lack of knowledge about their importance prevented me from persevering to study them more thoroughly ahead of time.
Front single dewclaws are normal for canids and polydactyly is common in dogs. Removal of front and/or rear dewclaws at birth is a routine procedure for most North American purebred dogs. Rear dewclaws are essentially unknown in wild canids and have been taken to mean hybridization with dogs had occurred.
This theory has recently been supported by molecular comparisons of some Italian wolves, a few of which had rear dewclaws. More than six FCI breeds require rear dewclaws, usually double, and several more breed standards either prefer or allow double dewclaws. As a generalization, the trait is preferred in breeds working on snowy or uneven ground requiring extra grip. Some breed standards such as for Briards and Norwegian Lundehunds include detailed drawings of both varying correct toe structures and foot placement as well as unacceptable ones.
Dr. Sheila Schmutz indicated last year that the genetics of dewclaw structures was unknown at that time and I was unable to locate any genetic studies on the inheritance of dewclaws in dogs other than Monika’s. This is not a trait likely to warrant scientific research. As a multifactorial trait, and since Briard pups are still being born without the correct bony attachments, we can anticipate that despite our informed efforts lack of correct dewclaws will continue to be one source of pet puppies in our breed!
In people, there are several forms of isolated polydactyly (occurring on its own and not as part of a larger syndrome) which are caused by an autosomal dominant gene with varying degrees of both penetrance and expressivity. In these cases a family may have two normal appearing (one of whom carries the gene but without expression) parents, so there is a 50% chance of the children carrying the gene. One or more children may exhibit different expressions of polydactyly: a normal appearing extra digit, a stub, or two extra digits. One chromosome has been mapped and they are working at comparing phenotypic occurrences with genotype. In cats(early Maine Coon and Ernest Hemingway’s cats), polydactyly also occurs as an autosomal dominant gene with about 50% of the population exhibiting the trait.
A similar genetic basis would fit the occurrence of rear dewclaws and double dewclaws in our dogs. Monika Karlsdottir in her detailed articles and charts proposes that as many as 12 genes (12 different loci or gene locations on the chromosomes) would fit the phenotypic expression occurring in Icelandic Sheepdogs. Monika refers to this as a threshold trait where a dog needs a certain number of the dominant genes present in order to develop rear dewclaws.
For development of double rear dewclaws the number of dominant genes required is larger to get over the threshold. An Icelandic without rear dewclaws still quite probably carries some of the dominant genes required, just not enough of them. An Icelandic with good strong rear double dewclaws has enough of the dominant genes present but we still have no way of determining their genotype. As we can’t test for the presence of these genes we have to guess based on our knowledge of their parents’ dewclaws, grandparents, siblings, aunts, uncles, etc. As they produce puppies we learn more about the probable genetics of each sire and dam but it is still educated guesswork! As this is one of the notable features of Icelandics and one of the few disqualifying factors for showing the guesswork becomes important. The greater the number of loci (maybe 12!) determining a trait, the more continuous the variability: strong low claws forming a broader foot, strong low claws, strong not so low claws still with bony attachments, strong low single claw, weak but double claws, one strong and one weak claw forming the double, single attachment with two claws, weaker single attachment with two claws, or it could be millimetres of difference in location on the leg. Then there is the other hindleg!!!
For breeding purposes, I now classify my dogs based on the attachment to the leg. The photos with this article illustrate the dewclaws of some offspring and the parents - both classified single left rear dewclaw for breeding purposes.
There are also some wonderful pictures of dewclaws on Tofra Puppy pages. www.tofradogs.com/English/Articles.htm
http://article.pubs.nrc-cnrc.gc.ca (Paolo Ciucci, Vittorio Lucchini, Luigi Boitani, and Ettore Randi)
www.briard.com
http://cat.inist.fr
www.cfainc.org
http://en.wikipedia.org
www.hmc.psu.edu
http://library.thinkquest.org
Doctors’ Schmutz Genetics Seminar – Part 2 will be in the next Newsletter but I will again refer you to the Colour Genetics site authored by Sheila and which is very frequently updated as new research knowledge becomes available worldwide. There are also links to other genetic sites of interest.
http://homepage.usask.ca/~schmutz/dogcolors.html
Sharon K. Schaefer
In our breed dewclaws must be present on all four legs. When I purchased my first Icelandic I searched for a puppy with not just rear dewclaws but double rear dewclaws. When her six grand puppies were born here last year, two had no dewclaws at all on one hindleg. Two others had singles on both hindlegs, and on one of these they were quite weak. I didn’t truly understand what a good or poor double dewclaw looked like.
By failing to focus hard on the conformation of good dewclaws on every leg and individual differences between both legs and dogs I had lost a critical characteristic of the Icelandic Sheepdog.
Given the low numbers of Icelandics that most of us have met in real life and the small gene pool of our breed in Canada I hope that this article will prevent other breeders from unknowingly (note: I may still have chosen to do this mating) reproducing this event.
I would especially like to acknowledge the efforts and information shared by Monika Karlsdottir in the articles, drawings, and charts on her website - I had access to these before this mating but difficulty in downloading and my own lack of knowledge about their importance prevented me from persevering to study them more thoroughly ahead of time.
Front single dewclaws are normal for canids and polydactyly is common in dogs. Removal of front and/or rear dewclaws at birth is a routine procedure for most North American purebred dogs. Rear dewclaws are essentially unknown in wild canids and have been taken to mean hybridization with dogs had occurred.
This theory has recently been supported by molecular comparisons of some Italian wolves, a few of which had rear dewclaws. More than six FCI breeds require rear dewclaws, usually double, and several more breed standards either prefer or allow double dewclaws. As a generalization, the trait is preferred in breeds working on snowy or uneven ground requiring extra grip. Some breed standards such as for Briards and Norwegian Lundehunds include detailed drawings of both varying correct toe structures and foot placement as well as unacceptable ones.
Dr. Sheila Schmutz indicated last year that the genetics of dewclaw structures was unknown at that time and I was unable to locate any genetic studies on the inheritance of dewclaws in dogs other than Monika’s. This is not a trait likely to warrant scientific research. As a multifactorial trait, and since Briard pups are still being born without the correct bony attachments, we can anticipate that despite our informed efforts lack of correct dewclaws will continue to be one source of pet puppies in our breed!
In people, there are several forms of isolated polydactyly (occurring on its own and not as part of a larger syndrome) which are caused by an autosomal dominant gene with varying degrees of both penetrance and expressivity. In these cases a family may have two normal appearing (one of whom carries the gene but without expression) parents, so there is a 50% chance of the children carrying the gene. One or more children may exhibit different expressions of polydactyly: a normal appearing extra digit, a stub, or two extra digits. One chromosome has been mapped and they are working at comparing phenotypic occurrences with genotype. In cats(early Maine Coon and Ernest Hemingway’s cats), polydactyly also occurs as an autosomal dominant gene with about 50% of the population exhibiting the trait.
A similar genetic basis would fit the occurrence of rear dewclaws and double dewclaws in our dogs. Monika Karlsdottir in her detailed articles and charts proposes that as many as 12 genes (12 different loci or gene locations on the chromosomes) would fit the phenotypic expression occurring in Icelandic Sheepdogs. Monika refers to this as a threshold trait where a dog needs a certain number of the dominant genes present in order to develop rear dewclaws.
For development of double rear dewclaws the number of dominant genes required is larger to get over the threshold. An Icelandic without rear dewclaws still quite probably carries some of the dominant genes required, just not enough of them. An Icelandic with good strong rear double dewclaws has enough of the dominant genes present but we still have no way of determining their genotype. As we can’t test for the presence of these genes we have to guess based on our knowledge of their parents’ dewclaws, grandparents, siblings, aunts, uncles, etc. As they produce puppies we learn more about the probable genetics of each sire and dam but it is still educated guesswork! As this is one of the notable features of Icelandics and one of the few disqualifying factors for showing the guesswork becomes important. The greater the number of loci (maybe 12!) determining a trait, the more continuous the variability: strong low claws forming a broader foot, strong low claws, strong not so low claws still with bony attachments, strong low single claw, weak but double claws, one strong and one weak claw forming the double, single attachment with two claws, weaker single attachment with two claws, or it could be millimetres of difference in location on the leg. Then there is the other hindleg!!!
For breeding purposes, I now classify my dogs based on the attachment to the leg. The photos with this article illustrate the dewclaws of some offspring and the parents - both classified single left rear dewclaw for breeding purposes.
There are also some wonderful pictures of dewclaws on Tofra Puppy pages. www.tofradogs.com/English/Articles.htm
http://article.pubs.nrc-cnrc.gc.ca (Paolo Ciucci, Vittorio Lucchini, Luigi Boitani, and Ettore Randi)
www.briard.com
http://cat.inist.fr
www.cfainc.org
http://en.wikipedia.org
www.hmc.psu.edu
http://library.thinkquest.org
Doctors’ Schmutz Genetics Seminar – Part 2 will be in the next Newsletter but I will again refer you to the Colour Genetics site authored by Sheila and which is very frequently updated as new research knowledge becomes available worldwide. There are also links to other genetic sites of interest.
http://homepage.usask.ca/~schmutz/dogcolors.html
Rainbow Bridge - Lukka of Pineridge
Memories of Lukka by Jill Fike of Pineridge Kennels
Lukka and Una duly arrived in Canada while probably thinking they were still in Iceland as they came with a charter flight of 70 Icelandic horses! This was in the summer of 1996. We just had Eric at that time, so there was huge excitement for him, seeing two little Icelandic puppies arriving.
Lukka was a feisty little puppy right from the start, while Una was a little older and much more laid back. They had lots of room to run and had a happy time growing up together. We put Lukka in with our sheep and she always enjoyed moving them around.
When she was older, we were re-doing our fence between our farm and our neighbours' farm and frequently their herd of cows came to visit! With virtually no training except for verbal encouragement, she soon became adept at rounding up Bob and Bonnie's cows and returning them to quite a distance beyond the fence line! On occasion, with no verbal encouragement, she also decided to move our horses for us!
Lukka was just an exemplary mother - she just loved her puppies. The most memorable litter was the one where we had seven people on a waiting list for little girls and she had seven little boys! This was the largest litter we've ever had. Suffice to say nobody had been planning to breed and as I think most people will agree, Icelandic little boys are every bit as affectionate as little girls, the little boys went to the little girls waiting families!
Sadly our vet diagnosed Lukka with cancer and said it would be very painful surgery for her and as she was no longer a young dog, it would be kinder to let it take its course. Aside from one more vet trip about a year ago, she showed no signs of not feeling and behaving as she always had until Easter weekend, when she wasn't quite her normal self. I spent some time with her before we both went to bed on the Saturday night and she didn't wake up on the Sunday morning.
Lukka's legacy is still living on in various places in North America and we thank her for her contribution to many families' happiness. She will always have a special place in our hearts as a loyal, loving friend and companion.
Lukka and Una duly arrived in Canada while probably thinking they were still in Iceland as they came with a charter flight of 70 Icelandic horses! This was in the summer of 1996. We just had Eric at that time, so there was huge excitement for him, seeing two little Icelandic puppies arriving.
Lukka was a feisty little puppy right from the start, while Una was a little older and much more laid back. They had lots of room to run and had a happy time growing up together. We put Lukka in with our sheep and she always enjoyed moving them around.
When she was older, we were re-doing our fence between our farm and our neighbours' farm and frequently their herd of cows came to visit! With virtually no training except for verbal encouragement, she soon became adept at rounding up Bob and Bonnie's cows and returning them to quite a distance beyond the fence line! On occasion, with no verbal encouragement, she also decided to move our horses for us!
Lukka was just an exemplary mother - she just loved her puppies. The most memorable litter was the one where we had seven people on a waiting list for little girls and she had seven little boys! This was the largest litter we've ever had. Suffice to say nobody had been planning to breed and as I think most people will agree, Icelandic little boys are every bit as affectionate as little girls, the little boys went to the little girls waiting families!
Sadly our vet diagnosed Lukka with cancer and said it would be very painful surgery for her and as she was no longer a young dog, it would be kinder to let it take its course. Aside from one more vet trip about a year ago, she showed no signs of not feeling and behaving as she always had until Easter weekend, when she wasn't quite her normal self. I spent some time with her before we both went to bed on the Saturday night and she didn't wake up on the Sunday morning.
Lukka's legacy is still living on in various places in North America and we thank her for her contribution to many families' happiness. She will always have a special place in our hearts as a loyal, loving friend and companion.
Rainbow Bridge - Greenstone Honey Child
In Memory of Greenstone Honey Child
I will lend to you for awhile a puppy,
For you to love her while she lives
and to mourn for her when she is gone.
Maybe for twelve or fourteen years,
Or maybe for a day or two or three.
But will you, till I call her back,
Take care of her for me?
Should her stay be brief
you'll always have her memories
as solace for your grief.
I cannot promise that she will stay,
since all from earth return,
But there are lessons taught below
I want this pup to learn.
But should I call her back
much sooner than you've planned
Please brave the bitter grief that comes
and try to understand.
I will lend to you for awhile a puppy,
For you to love her while she lives
and to mourn for her when she is gone.
Maybe for twelve or fourteen years,
Or maybe for a day or two or three.
But will you, till I call her back,
Take care of her for me?
Should her stay be brief
you'll always have her memories
as solace for your grief.
I cannot promise that she will stay,
since all from earth return,
But there are lessons taught below
I want this pup to learn.
But should I call her back
much sooner than you've planned
Please brave the bitter grief that comes
and try to understand.
Monday, June 18, 2007
Show Results - June 15th, 16th, and 17th
Photo of Belglen Riddari, in Group Seven on June 16th. To see Riddari on the move, check out his show video on the down and back, link belowhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQhA2LaWCS0
Show : Kingston, Ontario, Canada
Date : June 15th
Judge: Mr. Morley Thornton
Best of Breed - Belglen Roskva
Best Opposite -Belglen Riddari
Best Puppy in Breed- Greenstone Black Pearl
Date : June 16th
Judge : Ms. Denise Cornelssen
Best of Breed- Belglen Riddari
Best of Opposite- Belglen Roskva
Best Puppy in Breed- Greenstone Black Pearl
Date : June 17th
Judge: Mr. Donald Duncan
Best of Breed : Greenstone Black Pearl
Best of Opposite: Belglen Riddari
Best Puppy in Breed: Greenstone Black Pearl
Congrats to the Icelandic Sheepdogs on their wonderful wins..
Date : June 15th
Judge: Mr. Morley Thornton
Best of Breed - Belglen Roskva
Best Opposite -Belglen Riddari
Best Puppy in Breed- Greenstone Black Pearl
Date : June 16th
Judge : Ms. Denise Cornelssen
Best of Breed- Belglen Riddari
Best of Opposite- Belglen Roskva
Best Puppy in Breed- Greenstone Black Pearl
Date : June 17th
Judge: Mr. Donald Duncan
Best of Breed : Greenstone Black Pearl
Best of Opposite: Belglen Riddari
Best Puppy in Breed: Greenstone Black Pearl
Congrats to the Icelandic Sheepdogs on their wonderful wins..
Sunday, June 10, 2007
Dog Show Results for June 9th/10th -Regina
Show : Regina, Sask, Canada
Greenstone Belglen BoogieMan took Best of Breed under CKC All-Breed Judge Skip Stanbridge on June 9th.
Greenstone Belglen BoogieMan took Best of Breed under CKC All-Breed Judge Rick Fehler
There is a Show photo coming and we are waiting for results for today's show, Good luck, and we will update as more information continues to come in.
Great to see the ISD's shown across Canada and wonderful for all those visiting dog folks to get to meet and see a Icelandic Sheepdog in person.
Greenstone Belglen BoogieMan took Best of Breed under CKC All-Breed Judge Skip Stanbridge on June 9th.
Greenstone Belglen BoogieMan took Best of Breed under CKC All-Breed Judge Rick Fehler
There is a Show photo coming and we are waiting for results for today's show, Good luck, and we will update as more information continues to come in.
Great to see the ISD's shown across Canada and wonderful for all those visiting dog folks to get to meet and see a Icelandic Sheepdog in person.
New Title for U-Ch Belglen Roskva CGN is now
U-Ch Belglen Roskva CGN TT
Roskva (aka Soley) took and passed the Temperament Test administered by the Canadian organization, Temperament Test Associates on June 9th.
Proud owner Laura Ford and Breeder Sharon at Belglen Kennels are so very pleased with Roskva's new titles.
Don't forget to check out more info on Roskva on her kennels website. Roskva has a planned litter this fall, to learn more please check out the website link below.
http://www.sundogwalks.ca/solhundur/Certificates.html
Roskva (aka Soley) took and passed the Temperament Test administered by the Canadian organization, Temperament Test Associates on June 9th.
Proud owner Laura Ford and Breeder Sharon at Belglen Kennels are so very pleased with Roskva's new titles.
Don't forget to check out more info on Roskva on her kennels website. Roskva has a planned litter this fall, to learn more please check out the website link below.
http://www.sundogwalks.ca/solhundur/Certificates.html
Wednesday, June 6, 2007
Greenstone Thunder -New Herding Title -JHD
Dog: Greenstone Thunder
Title: JHD -AHBA
Congrats to Deb, Doug and Gwen, Co-owners with Valerie Sharp(Breeder) of Greenstone Thunder for his new herding title JHD.
Great to see a Icelandic Sheepdog doing what it was breed to do in terms of function.
Title: JHD -AHBA
Congrats to Deb, Doug and Gwen, Co-owners with Valerie Sharp(Breeder) of Greenstone Thunder for his new herding title JHD.
Great to see a Icelandic Sheepdog doing what it was breed to do in terms of function.
Saturday, June 2, 2007
CISC FCI Style Fun Match July 27th- Judge Monika K
Date : July 27th
Time: 1pm to 4 pm
Place: Misty Morning Farm
Event: FCI style Fun Match for Iceland Sheepdogs.
Judge: Monika K from Iceland
Fee: Ten dollars
Each Dog will be judges by the FCI/CKC Standard, and will be given a write up on themselves from Monika.
Extra's, This is not a socal event per sa, there is no lunch or dinner planned, There is plenty of room for parking and grooming tables to be set up for the four hours the event is being held, there will be limited access to the washroom in the house, and the rest of the house is off limit, It is to be treated like any other dog show, each person should bring their own water/food, gear etc.
CISC fundraiser coolor of cold pop/water/Hotdogs for sale, with limited selection.
This will be a pre-registered event only, not open to the public, if you wish to book in, please contact isdpuppies@hotmail.com for a registeration form.
Fee's will be split between the Judge and CISC.
Time: 1pm to 4 pm
Place: Misty Morning Farm
Event: FCI style Fun Match for Iceland Sheepdogs.
Judge: Monika K from Iceland
Fee: Ten dollars
Each Dog will be judges by the FCI/CKC Standard, and will be given a write up on themselves from Monika.
Extra's, This is not a socal event per sa, there is no lunch or dinner planned, There is plenty of room for parking and grooming tables to be set up for the four hours the event is being held, there will be limited access to the washroom in the house, and the rest of the house is off limit, It is to be treated like any other dog show, each person should bring their own water/food, gear etc.
CISC fundraiser coolor of cold pop/water/Hotdogs for sale, with limited selection.
This will be a pre-registered event only, not open to the public, if you wish to book in, please contact isdpuppies@hotmail.com for a registeration form.
Fee's will be split between the Judge and CISC.
Hip Test Results- OFA or Pennhip for Canadian Dogs- Born in Canada or Import Dogs
Please note we will continue to update as new results come in, and we will also continue to back fill each year as we track down more information and get the results in a offical manner.
Last Update June 22, 2007 , please check back often for more updates thought the year. Canadian Born dogs will have their Parents names in brackets, Import dogs do not.
CSIC HD Rates for 2006-2007
Pineridge Gletta (Alfur X Lukka) - OFA- Good 5/07
Pineridge Vanadis (Alfur X Lukka) -OFA Good 4/07
Belglen Riddari (Alfur X Ima) -OFA Good 6/07
Belglen Risna (Alfur X Ima)- OFA Good 6/07
Belglen Roskva (Kolur x Hnuk’s Pila) -OFA Hips Good (Prelim) 1/07
Narri Fra Villiskogum -OFA -Fair 6/07
CISC HD Rates for 2005-2006
Penn Hip Tests Reports
Lavendel Vindur Pennhip results of L0.58 and R0.58
.Kersins Odinn Pennhip results of L0.37 and R 0.40.
Skin Deep Katina: Pennhip results of L0.47 and R.0.41
Please note that there is no way to cross the Pennhip test results against OFA results period.The lower the Pennhip number the best, the higher the number the more likely the dog will develop HD in the future.
OFA Test Reports
Skin Deep Katina OFA- Excellent
Loki frá Oddhóli, TT, CGC, TDI OFA- Good
Tofra Ljosalfur OFA -Good
OFA Prelim Tests Done (HD Free) but tests must be redone when the dogs are two years plus.
Belglen Riddari (Alfur X Ima)
Belglen Runa (Alfur X Ima)
Greenstone Born in a Storm (Tobba X Putti)
Test Results 2004
Tofra Hroi Grettir IS-42F25M-PI Hips Sept 1 2004- Fair
Fronar Ima Belglen
IS-47G26F-PI HIPS Dec 8 2004 - Good
IS-EL20F26-PI ELBOW Dec 8 2004 -Normal
Test Results 2003
TOFRA LAGSI IS-23F24M-PI March 4th 2003 - Fair
GRIMSNES' ROF IS-31E27F-PI HIPS Aug 20 2003 - Excellent
Test Results 2002
Pineridge Ala IS-16F27F-NOPI HIPS Mar 13 2002 -Fair
Test Results 2001
Last Update June 22, 2007 , please check back often for more updates thought the year. Canadian Born dogs will have their Parents names in brackets, Import dogs do not.
CSIC HD Rates for 2006-2007
Pineridge Gletta (Alfur X Lukka) - OFA- Good 5/07
Pineridge Vanadis (Alfur X Lukka) -OFA Good 4/07
Belglen Riddari (Alfur X Ima) -OFA Good 6/07
Belglen Risna (Alfur X Ima)- OFA Good 6/07
Belglen Roskva (Kolur x Hnuk’s Pila) -OFA Hips Good (Prelim) 1/07
Narri Fra Villiskogum -OFA -Fair 6/07
CISC HD Rates for 2005-2006
Penn Hip Tests Reports
Lavendel Vindur Pennhip results of L0.58 and R0.58
.Kersins Odinn Pennhip results of L0.37 and R 0.40.
Skin Deep Katina: Pennhip results of L0.47 and R.0.41
Please note that there is no way to cross the Pennhip test results against OFA results period.The lower the Pennhip number the best, the higher the number the more likely the dog will develop HD in the future.
OFA Test Reports
Skin Deep Katina OFA- Excellent
Loki frá Oddhóli, TT, CGC, TDI OFA- Good
Tofra Ljosalfur OFA -Good
OFA Prelim Tests Done (HD Free) but tests must be redone when the dogs are two years plus.
Belglen Riddari (Alfur X Ima)
Belglen Runa (Alfur X Ima)
Greenstone Born in a Storm (Tobba X Putti)
Test Results 2004
Tofra Hroi Grettir IS-42F25M-PI Hips Sept 1 2004- Fair
Fronar Ima Belglen
IS-47G26F-PI HIPS Dec 8 2004 - Good
IS-EL20F26-PI ELBOW Dec 8 2004 -Normal
Test Results 2003
TOFRA LAGSI IS-23F24M-PI March 4th 2003 - Fair
GRIMSNES' ROF IS-31E27F-PI HIPS Aug 20 2003 - Excellent
Test Results 2002
Pineridge Ala IS-16F27F-NOPI HIPS Mar 13 2002 -Fair
Test Results 2001
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